Destinations · Northern Croatia
Istria,the gastronomic north
The Croatian peninsula that shares its cuisine with Italy and its air with the Alps. A quiet guide to villa holidays in Istria's stone hill towns and coastal harbours.
The region in short
Istria is a heart-shaped peninsula in the north-west of Croatia, closer to Trieste than to Dubrovnik. It was Venetian for four centuries and Italian until 1947, and it eats accordingly.
Inland, medieval hill towns rise out of oak forests famous for their black and white truffles. On the coast, the old ports of Rovinj, Porec and Novigrad face across the Adriatic to Venice, still visible on clear days.
It is Croatia at its most European, its most gastronomic, and, for those in the know, its most reliable luxury destination outside the summer peak.
- 3
- Michelin stars
- 3 h
- Drive from Venice
- 8 wks
- Truffle season
- Year-round
- Villa season
Why Istria
The connoisseur'scorner of Croatia
Istria attracts a specific kind of traveller: one who wants the coast in the morning and a truffle lunch in a hill town by two. The distances are short, the roads are quiet, and the coastline is broken into hundreds of small pine-shaded coves rather than long open beaches.
It is the region we recommend most often for guests who have already done Provence and Tuscany and are looking for the next quiet version of that.
Luxury lifestyle
Stone villas,olive groves, private cellars
The characteristic Istrian villa is a restored stone farmhouse, a stancija, with its own olive grove, an infinity pool overlooking vineyards, and a resident concierge who knows every truffle hunter and winemaker within thirty kilometres.
A typical week involves a morning at the villa, an afternoon at the coast, and evenings in Rovinj, Motovun or Groznjan. Private tastings at Kabola, Kozlovic and Roxanich are arranged in advance.
Best beaches
Pine-shaded covesalong the west coast
Istria's coastline is rocky and pine-forested rather than sandy. Mulini in Rovinj, Lone Bay, and the coves of the Cape Kamenjak nature park south of Pula are the best swimming.
For long lunches on the sand, Bijeca beach in Medulin remains the family favourite. For crystal-clear water and no crowd, take a small boat out to the Brijuni archipelago.
Fine dining
Three Michelin starsand the truffle capital
Alaska Restaurant in Rovinj holds a Michelin star, as do San Rocco in Brtonigla and Draga di Lovrana just over the Kvarner border. Zigante in Livade is the world's most famous truffle restaurant.
The real depth is in the family agroturizam: Konoba Astarea, Konoba Morgan, Konoba Toklarija. Book a week ahead in summer, a day ahead the rest of the year.
Family activities
Short distances,shaded coves, real farms
Istria is our first recommendation for families. Everything is close together, most beaches are shaded and safe, and children take particularly well to the truffle hunts with the dogs at Karlic and Prodan.
The Brijuni islands, a former presidential retreat, have peacocks, dinosaur footprints and a small safari, a genuinely good day out for children of six and up.
Nature
Brijuni islandsand Ucka mountain
Brijuni National Park is a fourteen-island archipelago off the west coast, reachable in fifteen minutes by boat from Fazana. Inland, the Ucka mountain rises to 1,400 metres with hiking trails that finish at coastal villages by lunchtime.
The Lim fjord, technically a ria, is Istria's most photographed natural feature, and the oyster farms along its shores are open for tastings.
Local experiences
Truffles, olive oil,Malvazija by the glass
A morning truffle hunt with a Motovun-based family, followed by lunch cooked around the day's finds. An olive oil tasting at Ipsa or Chiavalon, both regularly ranked among the world's twenty best.
In summer, an evening walk through Groznjan or Motovun before dinner. In autumn, the Truffle Festival weekend in Livade, which we book six months in advance for guests staying nearby.
When to visit
Istria holds itsquality year-round
May, June, September and October are the best months. The sea is warm from June through late September, but Istria's inland charm continues well into November with the white truffle season.
July and August are hot and lively on the coast but still calm in the hill towns. Winter is quiet, cool and, for guests who love empty stone streets and long lunches, quietly wonderful.
Helpful information
Practicalitiesfor Istria
Getting there
Fly into Pula (30 min drive to most villas) or Trieste in Italy (90 min). Direct flights from London, Munich, Frankfurt and Zurich in summer.
Getting around
A car is essential. Distances are short but public transport is limited. We can arrange a resident driver by the day or the week.
Where to base
Inland (Motovun, Groznjan, Buje) for the gastronomy, coastal (Rovinj, Vrsar, Novigrad) for the swimming. Many guests split the week between the two.
Truffle season
White truffles October through December. Black truffles year-round. Book truffle hunts and Zigante restaurant at least three weeks ahead.
What to pack
Layers for evenings inland, hiking shoes if you plan to walk in Ucka, and something modestly formal for Alaska or San Rocco.
Currency
Croatia uses the euro. Cards are accepted everywhere. Farm restaurants sometimes prefer cash.
Frequently asked
Istriain questions
Luxury concierge
Plan your Istriaholiday
Tell us the dates, the party and the balance of coast and interior you want. A dedicated Istria specialist will reply within four hours with a shortlist and a suggested itinerary.
Luxe Villas Collection
Browse villasin Istria
Restored stone stancijas inland, contemporary villas on the coast. Each one personally verified and looked after by our on-the-ground team.